Caster level (CL) has to be entered along with class level for appropriate Spell DC calculation.SC (Spellcaster) has to be checked for either 1 and/or 2 of the first classes for the spell tab to show.Use the Misc attribute to enter special bonuses like the one provided by a Favored Class. The Skill Ranks section allows to track the number of available skill points per class, and total. HD (Hit Dice) serves as information and can be rolled on the Main Tab for the Favored (F) class. These are required to calculate relative stats such as the header’s class & level display as well as main attributes like melee, ranged. It is necessary to enter the Class name, Level (Lvl), Base Attack Bonus (BAB), and base values for Saving Throws (FORTitude, REFlex and WILL). Hovering over the labels will reveal the full names of each column in the tooltip. Up to 3 classes can be used for multiclassing, of which the first two can be spellcasters. This button will open to the relative Compendium item.ĭropping spells will behave in various ways depending on the spell itself and the character: Note: Shields can be used to attack and will be automatically added to Weapons/Attacks, AC Items and Gear repeating sections.Ī Compendium button in the form of an “i” (info button) will appear either next to the item name or in the options section. The dropped item will be automatically added to the character in the appropriate section, without having to add an entry in the related section of the sheet.ĭropping a weapon will add the item both to the Weapons/Attacks and to the Gear repeating sections.ĭropping armor will add the item both to the AC items and to the Gear repeating sections. Again, the pressure plate seems to be plenty to keep it from moving around once you close the camera.The sheet makes use of the Compendium for easy drag-drop of Weapons, Spells, Feats, Gear, etc.įeatures for classes, races, and NPCs will be added in future updates of the Compendium and the sheet.įrom the Compendium, you can drag and drop weapons, armors, gear, and spells anywhere on the sheet. Here’s what it would look like if you could see into the changing bag. A sheet of Instax Wide is just larger than the opening in the film gate. The side that was facing out (away from the other sheets in the cartridge) should be toward the lens when you drop the film into the camera. Keep the orientation of the film in mind. In your changing bag, slide the protective darkslide out of a cartridge of the film, then do the same with the first sheet of film. Using an Instax WideĪ third alternative is Instax Wide. Here are a couple of frames from the roll. In my experimental roll, I wasn’t pulling the film far enough, and the camera’s bellows was leaking badly. You will probably have lost the little gummed paper strip that holds it in place. Once the roll is done, go back into the changing bag and wind the film and backing paper back onto the spool. It helps to carry a paper clip to keep the free end of the backing paper rolled up. Once you get the hang of it, you should get 6 exposures on a roll of 120 film. This should give you a rough guide as to when you’ve advanced the film far enough. The film gate is about 10.4 cm wide, while the most widely spaced numbers on the backing paper are around 9.2 cm apart. The film will curl up in the paper-supply cavity. You have to lift the cutting bar at the end of the camera to do so. After each picture is taken, advance the film by pulling out a length of the backing paper. Lay the backing paper across to the right, leaving the film curling into the cavity, and close the camera. Now pull the backing paper and the film out until the free end of the film is just in the cavity on the left. Cut spacers from a wine cork to keep it centered, but not so tight that the spool can’t rotate. The re-spooled film will go in the chamber on the right.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |